TU Fuel Rail Installation
Billet fuel rail installation I have been told that the stock TII fuel rail starts to show its weakness at upwards of 300HP. I know that I will soon be venturing up into that territory, so I have decided to preimpt (sp?) the issue by installing one of TUs custom fuel rails. It is a great looking piece, which should flow more fuel that I would ever need. The only thing that I would have liked to have seen on this unit is a spot to mount the Buick GN style AFPR that most all of us run, and a spot for a fuel pressure gauge on the rail. I do know that there are a lot of guys running these with great sucess, so I will just run it as is.

Here is a list of what I used to complete the job.

Qty: 1 TU fuel rail Qty: 1 Aeromotive carb/EFI bypass regulator. Jegs PN: 027-13301 Price: 111.99
Qty: 1 Earls -6 AN Male to 5/16" Tubing Adapter Jegs PN: 361-165056 Price: 11.99
Qty: 1 Jegs 180* -6 AN hose end Jegs PN: 555-100041 Price: 20.99
Qty: 2 Jegs 3/8ths NPT to -6 AN adapter Jegs PN: 555-100106 Price: 6.98
Qty: 3 3/8ths NPT plug Jegs PN: 555-110403 Price: 11.97
Qty: 1 3/8ths NPT to -6 AN with 1/8th NPT port for FP gauge Jegs PN: 555-100524 Price: 9.69
Qty: 1 10' of -6 AN hose Jegs PN: 555-100912 Price: 34.99
Qty: 1 Liquid filled Jegs fuel pressure gauge 0-100 PSI Jegs PN: 555-41043 Price: 17.99
Qty: 1 Vise Jaws for hose ends Jegs PN: 555-80548 Price: 24.99
Qty: 1 -6 AN wrench Jegs PN: 555-80551 Price: 9.99
Qty: 3 -6 AN hose ends Jegs PN: 555-100001 Price: 14.97
Qty: 1 1/4" brake line from parts store
Qty: 1 5/16ths brake line from parts store
Qty: 1 1ft. fuel injection fuel hose and clamps 1/4" dia
Qty: 1 1ft. fuel injection fuel hose and clamps 5/16" dia

Here is what you need to do with the stuff...

I removed the top half of my two piece intake to make the installation a little easier.

I attached the rail with the supplied allen head screws. I had one 3/8ths NPT to -6 AN adapter on the drivers side of the rail, and the 3/8ths to -6 AN FP port adapter on the pass. side.

I then intalled the gauge which barely cleared the top half of the intake. I knew it would be close, but it worked. I also test fit the 180* hose end to see how well that would look in there.

Now it was time to decide where the FP regulator would go. I ended up bending the bracket that comes supplied with the FPR, and attaching it to the strut tower on the pass side. There was an exhisting hole for a tab that held up the wiring harness right there. I simply pulled the tab out, dropped the strut down some by loosening the nuts, then I stuck a 1/4" bolt through the hole and used a nut an washer to secure it on the outside. Conveniently enough, the bracket makes a nice spot to hold the wiring harness. The red circle is the fuel inlet which is a -6 AN to 3/8ths NPT adapter. The green circle is a 3/8ths to 1/4" hose barb adapter that my GF picked up for me at home depot. It serves as the beginning of the fuel return line. I have run the car for a while now, and could not be happier with the FPR where it is.

In order to get from the 5/16ths hard line to the -6 AN braided line, I used the earls hard tube to AN adapter. I simply took a short piece of 5/16ths hard line and flared one end with my double flare tool to make a little barb, and put the other end in the fitting to get it to -6 AN. I stuck some Fuel injection fuel line on my new adapter and clamped it to the stock hard lines.

I then ran it to the 180* hose end on the drivers side of the rail. I chose to do this since I did not want lines running all over my engine bay, and I really liked how the FPR was mounted where it was.

I then took a very short piece of line with two straight hose ends and connected the rail outlet to the FPR inlet. It was a tight fit once again, but it worked well.

Finally I made a piece of 1/4" brake line that went from the outlet of the FPR up to the hard line and used fuel line to connect it in both spots. It is working great, and I think it was a pretty darn good solution.

NOTES: I know that I did not use all 10' of my -6 line, and I had some tools that were not mentioned in the list above in my inventory already. Some of the fittings I listed I already had, but the list will get the job done with no excess fittings, and no extras needed. I used a pluber's puddy stick from the local hardware store for the seals on all the NPT connections. It was rated for fuel and it has worked great. The FPR that I have is super. It will adjust down to 0lbs. for pressure as I found when I first tried to start the car. The FP gauge is a little jumpy for my tastes, but that is some what to be expected since it is mounted on the rail and the motor has all solid mounts etc. I think that this was a pretty clean install overall, and I really am pleased with it.